The drive to Guatemala City was long, broken by a few stops. It took longer than expected to drive, as this was the weekend of Caravana del Zorro, a motorcycle pilgrimage to the Basilica of Esquipulas to pay homage to the Black Christ sculpture. Started 50 years ago by a motorcycle store owner, the event has grown so popular (with about 35,000 participants) that it was declared a national cultural day five years ago.

Along the way, Carlos told us about his experiences during the 36 years of civil war in Guatemala. His immediate family all survived, but cousins and other relatives were killed. For several years Carlos lived in the jungle, collecting allspice leaves and sap for chewing gum. He learned what plants and animals he could eat, as well as to avoid snake bites. His formal elementary education was thus interrupted until he was 13, when he was able to complete school, going on to study tourism in high school and in two years of college.

Guatemala City is not pretty, nor is it particularly safe. Power goes out every now and then. We drove around a small area of the downtown, stopping to see the cathedral and the main plaza.