The regional center for the lower Alentejo, Beja is a somewhat depressing city, with many empty and decaying building within the old walls. Many are ornately tiled; there is a sense that this was once a prosperous city. Perhaps people moved outside where it would be easier to have cars, as we could see more modern homes surrounding the city. Lunch was simple savory and sweet pastries (pasteis de touchinho, an almond treat) at Casa de Chá Maltesinhas. Dan bought an ankle brace at a pharmacy and thought it helped his heel injury somewhat.

    We visited the Regional Museums of Beja: The former Convent of Our Lady of Conception has Roman artifacts, tiles, porcelains, paintings from the 15th through 18th centuries; the Church of Santo Amaro contains Visigoth relics from the 5th through 8th centuries. Residents moved about the town streets or gathered in small groups to socialize. A man, like a live museum exhibit, dressed in the traditional sheepskin vest, lingered near the Regional Museum.

    The Pousada de Beja, São Francisco, is housed in an old convent that more recently was used as a military barracks. Our room was spacious and the common areas, very large. We swam in the pool, a large square surrounded by gardens, and ate dinner on the veranda outside the dining room.