Arriving from Rome by train and two buses, we settled into our rooms at Hotel Leon Bianco, at the base of a former tower. Only 14 of the town’s original 72 towers remain, but they and the Medieval buildings are enough to bring throngs of tourists everyday. Best seen from afar or in early morning or late evening when the crowds have left, we stayed for two nights, taking a circular walk around the countryside on the first day and setting off through fields and vineyards for Colle Val d’Elsa the second day.